Opel Astra A
1991-1998 of release
Repair and operation of the car
Opel Astra A
+ 1. Maintenance instruction
+ 2. Maintenance
+ 3. Engines
+ 4. Ventilation and heating
+ 5. Power supply system
+ 6. System of decrease in toxicity
+ 7. Coupling
+ 8. Transmissions
+ 9. Half shafts
+ 10. Brake system
+ 11. Suspension bracket and steering
- 12. Body
12.1. Technical characteristics
12.2. Maintenance and repair of a body
12.3. Vinyl finishing
12.4. Upholstery and rugs
12.5. Repair of insignificant damages
12.6. Repair of considerable damages
12.7. Front and rear bumper
12.8. Front grille
12.9. The water taking away panel before a windshield
12:11. Cowl loops
12:12. Lock elements
12:13. Rope of opening of a cowl
12:15. Internal handle of opening of a door
12:16. External handle of opening of a door
12:17. Locks of doors
12:18. Drum of the lock of a forward door
12:19. Lock clamp
12:20. Door glass
12:21. Window regulator mechanism
12:22. A trunk lid (models with a body like "Sedan")
12:23. Trunk lid loops
12:24. Trunk lid elements
12:25. Back door
12:26. Loops of a back door
12:27. Elements of a back door
12:28. Elements of the central lock
12:29. Elements of power windows
12:30. Rear-view mirror
12:31. Glass of a rear-view mirror
12:32. Elements of rear-view mirrors with the electric drive
12:33. Internal rear-view mirror
12:34. Front and back glass
12:35. Back triangular glasses
12:36. Panel of the top hatch
12:37. Elements of the top hatch
12:38. Panels of wheel niches
12:39. Protective guard of the engine
12:40. Gate of a jellied mouth of the fuel tank
12:41. Back spoilers
12:42. External elements of finishing of a body
12:43. Side decorative panels and additional spoilers
12:44. Sitting lobbies
12:45. Back sitting
12:46. Natyazhiteli of seat belts of front seats
12:47. Seat belts
12:48. Regulators of height of seat belts
12:49. Internal panels of finishing
12:51. Upholstery of a ceiling of salon
12:52. Internal panels of finishing
12:53. Panels of finishing of a luggage carrier, back door and trunk lid
12:54. Central console
12:55. Central panel of finishing of the dashboard
12:56. Casings of a steering column
12:57. Panel of finishing of an instrument guard
12:58. Glove compartment
12:59. Drum of the lock of a glove compartment
12.60. Lower expostulated finishings under the dashboard
+ 13. Electric equipment
+ 14. Electrical circuitries
Repair of small scratches
If scratch superficial also does not affect body metal, repair is very simple. Slightly rub the scratched surface with thin polishing structure to remove friable paint and wax. Wash out a surface clear water.
Repair of dents
During repair of dents the first that needs to be made, it to correct a dent that the damaged place was as it is possible closer to an initial form. There is no sense to try to restore completely an initial form as metal in the damaged place stretches, and it cannot be restored to an initial contour. It is better to level a dent so that its level was about 3 mm below than the level of surrounding metal.
In case the dent very small, is not present sense it at all to level.
If the dent is in such part of a body which has a double layer, or something else makes impossible access from within, it is necessary to apply other procedure. Drill several small openings in metal in the damaged surface, mainly in the deepest parts. Screw in the long, self-cut screws in openings so that they entered strong gearing with metal. Now it is possible to correct a dent, having pulled for the acting heads of screws by means of flat-nose pliers.
The following stage of repair this removal of paint from the damaged surface and from surrounding metal approximately on 2,5 cm. It becomes by means of a wire brush or the disk for grinding which is put on a drill, however with not smaller efficiency it can be made manually by means of an emery paper. To finish preparations for filling, smooth out the screw-driver or a file the surface of the bared metal, or drill small openings in the damaged area. It will provide good coupling of metal and a glaze. To finish repair, see the Filling point and painting.
Repair of openings from a rust or cracks
Peel all paint from the damaged surface and from surrounding metal in a radius about 2,5 cm, having used the emery paper or a wire brush which is put on a drill. If they are inaccessible, this work can be made manually by means of several sheets of an emery paper.
Using the applicator, apply filling paste on the prepared surface. Carry out by the applicator on the surface of filling to reach a desirable contour and to balance the surface of filling. When the initial level and a contour are reached, stop work with paste. If you continue, then paste will stick to the applicator. Continue to apply thin films of paste with 20-minute intervals until the level of filling precisely corresponds to the level of surrounding metal.
When filling hardens, its surplus can be removed by means of a file. Further it is necessary to use an emery paper, gradually increasing its granularity, having begun with paper with an indicator of granularity of 180 units and having finished with waterproof paper with an indicator of granularity of 600 units. Always reel up an emery paper on rubber or wooden whetstone, otherwise the surface of filling will not be completely flat. During grinding of a surface of filling the waterproof emery paper with an indicator of granularity of 600 units needs to be moistened periodically in water. It will help to reach very smooth surface.
Now the ring of naked metal which, in turn, has to be surrounded with the good intact paint has to surround the field of repair. Wash out the field of repair by water until all dust which remained after grinding is not removed.
On all smoothed-out surface apply a thin film of a soil covering. It will help to find all defects on the surface of filling. Correct the found defects by means of fresh filling or a lassirovka and once again smooth out a surface an emery paper. Repeat the procedure of putting primer and filling until you are not satisfied with quality of a surface of filling and an edge of paint. Wash out a surface clear water and let's it dry completely.
Now the field of repair is ready to painting. Coloring by dispersion needs to be carried out at warm, dry, windless weather when in air there is no dust. These conditions can be reached if you have an access to the big production room. However if you have to work in the open air, it is necessary to choose day of painting very carefully. If you work indoors, sprinkle water a floor. It will help you to beat dust which differently can rise in air. If the field of repair is on one panel of a body, close all surrounding panels. It will help you to minimize small discrepancy in color of paint. Decorative details of finishing, such as chromic slips, door handles and so on, it is also necessary to disguise or remove. For masking use an adhesive tape and several layers of paper.
Before dispersion carefully shake up paint, and then be trained to spray it to learn to do it correctly. Apply a thick layer of primer on the repaired surface. It is better to apply several thin films, than one thick. By means of an emery paper with granularity of 600 units smooth out the surface of primer until it does not become very smooth. During this operation the processed surface has to be moistened with water carefully. The emery paper needs also to be lowered periodically in water. Let's primer dry before drawing additional layers.
Spray paint on the top layer, increasing its thickness by drawing several layers. Begin to spray paint from the center of the repaired area, and then, using roundabouts, process all repaired surface, and also about 5 cm of surrounding paint. Remove all masking material in 10–15 minutes after drawing the last paint coat. Let's new paint dry, at least, two weeks, and then by means of very thin grinding structure make imperceptible transition from new paint to initial. In conclusion of work put a wax layer.